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Fire Dragon Pyrography
Machine A high
quality machine, that combines
small size with exceptionally stable heat settings achieved by
electronically controlling the output voltage. The
double insulated unit typically consumes no more than 7 watts in
use. Supplied with two pens as standard, each pen can be left
plugged into the unit and a small switch used to select which
pen to power. We believe
that this is the best package for amateur or professional.
Please see below for details of specification, operation and
more general information on pyrography. POWER
UNIT - is suitable for 200-250
volt 50 cycle supplies and in use typically consumes no more
than 7 watts. The unit is double insulated and may be used with
2 pin or 3 pin outlets. A 3 pin UK plug with 3A fuse is fitted
as standard. The output voltage is electronically controlled to
provide very stable heat settings. For convenience in working 2
pens may be connected and one or the other selected. PENS
- are lightweight with a
comfortable grip. The extra flexible leads are colour coded to
identify the pen (and nib) in use. Pens with standard nibs take
around 4 amps and need a little over 1 volt to drive them. NIBS/TIPS
- are supplied with the machine. The starter pack contains 3
‘V’ nibs (for lines) and 2 'U’ nibs (for shading). Other
nibs are available, eg a ‘W’ twin point (for calligraphy), a
‘Helix’ (for heavy work) etc.. These are all made from a
0.5mm diameter Nickel/Chrome alloy. A fine gauge ‘V’
is also produced for delicate or miniature work. To
fit or replace a nib, slacken only the 2 end screws. Tighten
after making sure the nib wire is in a central position each
side. OPERATION Power
on/off switch - is the rocker switch located at the right hand
side of the box. The top shows red when switched
on. Connecting
Pens - The black and red plugs on the end of the pen lead
correspond to the black and red sockets at
the front of the box. The plugs should be placed in the sockets
side by side. Switch power off before plugging or changing pens. Pen
Switch - is the small switch located at the right hand front of
the box. In the up position it powers the pen
plugged into the upper two sockets. In the down position,
that plugged into the lower two sockets. Heat
Controller - is the knob located at the left front of the box.
There is a mark placed on the box at the
top centre of the knob position (12 o’clock). This is the
midway point of the heat control. A good normal operating
position is at about 11 o’clock, although this will vary
according to the materials used. Practice is needed to establish
the best heat position for your requirements and those of your
materials. MATERIALS Most
pyrography is done on wood, although very good results can be
obtained on leather, which is easy to work because it is
generally smooth (without a grain). Leather can also be worked
at lower temperatures. Wood
needs to be reasonably hard with a close grain. Soft woods (pine
etc.) can be worked, but it is difficult and results will never
be as good as on the more appropriate woods. Sycamore is
generally regarded as the best, because it fits the above
criteria and also is light in colour so provides a good contrast
with the burnt design. Sycamore is a member of the maple
family, all of which are good to use. Many other woods can be
used; amongst those most commonly available are beech, birch,
lime, cherry, apple etc.. Even mahogany will burn well, but
clearly with the darker woods, there is less contrast so
selection of an appropriate design is important. The best way to
find out whether a wood works well is to try it!! NB
A word of warning – MDF is smooth and easy, but the fumes are
highly toxic so it is to be avoided at all costs. Some woods, eg
yew and laburnam, may also give off toxic fumes or dust. If you
are using a wood with which you are unfamiliar or have any
doubts, check its properties first. If using any other unusual
materials, or wood which has previously had some sort of finish
on it, varnish, oil etc., check first to find if fumes are
likely to be toxic. PREPARATION This
is not the most interesting part of the process, but is very
important. Wood should be dry, planed if necessary and sanded to
as smooth a finish possible - more so than for painting. Most
“commercial” blanks come ready sanded - but better results
can be obtained by carrying out finer sanding. We supply cloth
backed Vitex abrasives by the metre in grades up to 600 grit. If
the wood is not pre-sanded, it may be necessary to do several
sandings with progressively finer paper. Always sand in the
direction of the grain. DESIGNS You
need to get used to using the tool and to working on wood, which
because of the grain is quite different from working on paper.
Therefore it is probably easier to start with fairly simple
designs which do not have too many long lines. Drawing the
design on first is recommended for 2 reasons, a) if you make a
mistake, pencil marks are easily erased - burns are not and b)
you can concentrate more on the process of burning, until you
are used to the tool and materials. If
you are not confident about drawing your design - don’t worry.
Simply choose what you want to do and transfer it to the wood
either by using graphite carbon or, if this is not available, by
using the old school method of pencil shading the back of the
tracing paper and then drawing over it to transfer the
graphite to the wood. Graphite carbon can be quite difficult to
get hold of and quite expensive, but it is useful and lasts
well. It can usually be found at drawing office suppliers or a
good art suppliers. Ordinary ink carbon is unsuitable because
the ink can “bleed” into the wood grain, necessitating
burning heavier lines to remove it. PYROGRAPHING Generally,
the best way to learn pyrography is to do it. Basic guidance can
be given, but you need to spend time familiarising yourself with
the tool and with the properties of the wood and to experiment.
No two pieces are the same - nor do they burn the same. It is
far easier to work in the direction of the grain than across it
- but you can’t create much in the way of pictures like
that!!! Try getting some scraps of suitable wood, or birch faced
ply if it is available, and just play with the tool to see what
it will do. What
appears on the wood is influenced by i) The temperature of the
tool, ii) The speed with which you work iii) The amount of
pressure applied to the tool and iv) The shape of the wire. By
varying the combinations of these 4 things, a wide variety of
effects can be achieved. It’s
tempting to try to work at the same speed that you would when
drawing with a pencil on paper, but you have to give the tool
time to burn into the wood, so the process is slower.
However much you sand it, the wood still has a grain, which
means that the whole piece is not uniform in texture. It is also
tempting to try to speed things up by turning up the heat -
which may result only in a heavier line than you wanted,
“overburn” ie. singeing to the sides of the burnt line,
blobbing etc.etc.. Until you are used to the tool, it may be
better to keep the heat fairly low and build up as necessary. Remember
the longer the tool is held in one position, the deeper it will
burn, so if a line is required, you need to keep it moving to
avoid “blobs”. Try to start your line by introducing the
tool to the wood in a shallow arc, so that it’s actually
moving in the direction of the line when it meets the wood. Tail
off at the end of your line in the same way. FINISHING This
is a matter of choice, but a finish of some description is
advisable to seal and protect the wood. Remember also, that if
exposed to direct light for long periods, the wood will change
colour and the pyrography may fade. A good finish is Finishing
Oil from Chestnut Products (a blend of oils including Tung Oil)
which forms a seal on wood giving a tough water resistant
finish. Several coats will build to a gloss finish if required.
Lacquers can be used - (we supply either a satin or gloss finish
via aerosol) or a Melamine lacquer for improved heat and water
resistance. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions. For
any item which is to be used in connection with food - chopping
boards etc., an excellent protective finish is Food Safe
Finishing Oil from Chestnut products and supplied by us.
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